Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Playa! (Freedom, reading – NOT for school, and spending time con mis amigos)
The next day, we went to a small town south of Puerto Lopez called Las Tunas, which had a huuuuge beach that we played Frisbee on and went swimming for a little while. As we were getting off the bus we had met a group of Canadians who were building a retaining wall on the other side of town as part of a community development class. We went with one of them, who was an older student in her 40s or 50s, to her host family, which was very welcoming, and the host mom offered to make us batidos (smoothies) yumm. We spent a good amount of time just sitting in the shade talking with the woman, who had actually lost her eyesight about 3 years prior, and then later talking to some of the other volunteers who were more around our age. We went back to Puerto Lopez, and I was planning on going to another beach (Canoa) to meet other friends, but Galo had told me that it was really difficult to get there overnight, so I ended up just going home with Zack & Elizabeth to Quito.
It was a perfect, very relaxing way to spend my time after being done with finals :)
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Finals
But then, at about noon on Friday after I had turned in my paper… I was freeee! I am now ¾ of the way through college…. WHERE HAS THE TIME GONE?! I have one year left of school… oh goodness.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Quilotoa Bike Trip!
My friend Steph took the liberty of looking up some trips online to go to Quilotoa, a big volcano crater-lake not too far outside Quito (about 3 hours). She found a great 3-day bike trip, and so 5 of us from the program went together: Me, Steph, Eva, Pierce, and Zack.
We left Friday morning and were picked up by our awesome tour guide, Lincoln, in a jeep with our bikes on the roof. I got picked up in Cumbayá, but apparently in Lumbisí while he was waiting for half the group, some Lumbiseño (gente from Lumbisí?) asked if he was stealing those bikes… He said no, he was waiting for some people, and why would he put the bikes on top of the roof if he were stealing them? It sounded like a strange story, but Lumbisí is just such a close-knit community that a strange guy with bikes is very out of place.
Anyways, we had a nice ride in the car to the first part of our trip, Cotopaxi! We drove in through the National Park up to the volcano (farthest away from the center of the earth thank-you-very-much) and half-wayish up to the parking lot. We climbed from there up to the refugio, which was quite a hike… mainly because it was super steep and there was very little oxygen for me to breathe…but we made it, and then trudged back down through the volcanic ash that had been really hard to climb up through.
When we got back down to the parking lot, we put our knee pads, elbow pads, helmets, and biking gloves on, and prepared to bike down the volcano (!). We took a few pictures of us in our hardcore outfits, and then went gliiiding down on the dirt road. I decided later that this was my favorite part of the trip, but not by much, because there were so many other amazing parts too. We went back and forth a bunch of times until we got to the bottom, and then we biked through the national park all the way to a restaurant where we stopped and had a picnic lunch while it was raining of awesome sandwiches, with the only ají I’ve ever liked in Ecuador (I’m not big on the spicy stuff). Luckily it stopped raining and we kept biking all the way to a river just before the entrance to the park. Lincoln had followed us in the car the whole way with our stuff, so we packed up our bikes and drove to Quilotoa that night.
We got to our hostel and had a nice big family-style dinner with everyone else staying there. We had some tea and made a fire in our room, and we listened to music and hung out for a while before going to bed.
The next morning, we got up and went to the Quilotoa crater. You walk through a little cavern in the side of the crater, and all of a sudden you come out and see the huge lake and mountains around it. It was sooo beautiful. We climbed down to the lake, and Pierce, being Pierce, went right ahead and jumped in the cooold lake. When we saw him shivering as he rushed to get out, we all decided against it, but we did go kayaking around the lake (trying to avoid the loch ness monster that popped up occasionally…)
The hike down was really, really steep… and so I wasn’t about to hike back up it when we still had a whole day of biking ahead of us, and we had heard many suggestions that we should take horses/mules back up the crater. So Eva and I shelled out the $5, me for a horse and her for a mule, and we rode back up while Zack, Pierce, and Steph hiked up. They ended up beating us (they got a head start… we had to wait for the aminals to come), but I was really glad I did it, my first horse ride since I was 8 or so! And I only sneezed 7 times, and then took a Zyrtec from Pierce when we got back up.
Then we started our bike ride to the next town on the loop (about 2-and-a-half hours away). This was only about 60% downhill, as opposed to the previous day, which was probably 90% downhill. In the beginning, we all went up a hill and thought that Steph was behind us, but it turns out she had gone the wrong way and Lincoln had to drive back and find her.
We were warned about dogs that might attack us on this stretch of the trip, so Zack went prepared with a stick in his belt loop. Lincoln also told us a strategy to either, if you’re going downhill, just keep going because the dogs are just protecting their territory, so they probably will just bark at you as you pass by, or, if you’re going uphill and can’t go fast, you should get off your bike on the opposite side of the dog and use the bike to protect yourself. Luckily, I didn’t have any run-ins with dogs that day, but Eva had a pretty traumatizing time when 3 dogs tried to attack her. I came up behind her just after she had escaped them. Thankfully they didn’t bite or anything, but it seemed like it was a scary experience.
We got to the next town, Chugchilán, and took our stuff into the very nice hostel right before it started raining a lot. We took some nice hot showers, and after a while we found another group from USFQ (mostly gringos, some friends of ours and a few people we didn’t know) that was staying at the same place, and we all hung out (some, literally so, in the hammocks) for a while listening to music and talking, and then we had dinner (with mashed potatoes?! hardly ever exist in the Ecuador) and sat around for a while more talking to Lincoln about how he wants to start his own business, because the one he works for now is owned by this guy from Holland who makes the tours kind of expensive and geared towards tourists rather than students.
On Sunday, we woke up and set out on one more bike ride (again, about 2 ½ hours) to Sigcho, the next town over. On this one it was about the same uphill/downhill deal as the last time, and the same warning about dogs. I got chased a little this time, but I stopped and used my bike to shoo the puppy away, and a few other times I just got barked at.Eva, Steph, and I stuck together for a good chunk of the time, so we were all fine… and we were all equally tired and incapable of biking up hills, so we walked together up some of them as Lincoln followed us in the jeep.
The boys reached the town way ahead of us, and we all ate lunch there before heading back to Quito.
As one last hurrah, Lincoln told us that there was one stretch right after the town that was all downhill and it was, guess what, asphalt! (as opposed to the dirt roads we had been on the whole trip… playing the pothole avoidance game…) This was my very close second favorite part of the trip. It was a really smooth ride all the way down the side of a hill to a river, and then we just packed up the bikes and went on home. Really, this was one of the best trips I had been on in Ecuador… and I had really missed biking! (and kayaking for that matter)
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Tragedia en Lumbisí
Eventually the news did show the incident, but there wasn’t much of anything that we hadn’t already known, except that one of the first women that made it down to help (there were 2 kids that ran up to town to get help when the others were caught in the water) was the mother of a girl named Blanca, and she had managed to save three children but couldn’t make it to Blanca, who could only wave goodbye to her mother. She later drowned. The report showed Blanca{s mother attempting to talk to the reporter, but barely being able to get any words out, so bothersome and horrible to watch. Evidently, a few of the bodies were found down the river as far as Tumbaco, which for those of you who don’t know (most), is a good 5-plus miles. When the names of the deceased and the missing girl showed up on the screen, Estefa buried her head in the pillows and of course the rest of us couldn’t quite hold everything back.
Rest in peace, niños.
Procession to the cemetery- This is Jeimy's 'grave'-
Semana Santa 2 - Of Utter Misery
In the morning, I realized that I had left my hiking boots on the rack above our seats on the bus that took us to Alausi from Loja... (sorry mom, they're gone forever) I had flip flops... but that was NOT going to help me hike part of the Inca trail for our field trip. So after we met with the group and had breakfast, I went with my professor to go buy some shoes. I only had the money Zack had given us, and we still needed some for food. Unfortunately, I didn't know that it would have served me well to have rubber boots, which about half of the group had, so I bought gym shoes, which were twice as expensive. :(
We set off to a small town called Achupallas, and at some point our bus stopped and said that we would have to take trucks to go further along because the roads couldnt support the big bus we were in. Some Ecuadorian men packed our stuff onto a truck... which looked a little shady because they put our bags on a tarp-like roof supported by one pole, hanging over all of us sitting in the truck bed. It was about an hour ride in a pretty darn uncomfortable position... but it wasn't raining or too cold... so we were alright.
When we got to Achupallas we thought there were going to be mules there waiting to carry our stuff... but we waited... and waited... and finally about 2 and a half hours later the mules came so we could start our looooong hike. My shoes got muddy in the first hour for sure... so it wasn't too great, and I was really regretting my purchase. It was also raining a bit, but we went through a cool mountain pass and saw a river down below. We got to a big open area and set up camp for the night... it was already getting cooold.
That night we used the last of my iPod battery and had a sing-along in our tent :) That kept us warm for a while, and some hilarious ecuadorian guys came and joined in for a little while... but then Elizabeth and I kicked everyone out and got some sleep. Also, we ate our food, tuna and crackers... which was eaten many, many more times, because that's basically all we bought... mmm survival food :P The other girls on the trip were so nice though, so they gave us some snacks and peanut butter later when we were running out of food.
Anyways, we started the next morning and hiked FOR-EV-ER. I'm not the best hiker, and I wasn't the worst in our big group (about 25) either, so for a good 2 or 3 hours I was basically hiking alone in between the fast group and the slow group. The trail was easy to follow for most of that part of the day, and I also passed the mules once, then they passed me, then I passed them again, then they passed me again. This whole time it was baaad weather... rainy and cold. I'm pretty sure I was the most miserable I had ever been in my entire life. Especially since hiking alone for a few hours messes with your head...
I caught up to the first group in the early afternoon where we all stopped for a lunch break. This was also the part where our guide (Ecuadorian guy that was hired who knows the trail) said that the trail gets hard to follow, so we all have to stay together. When the slower group caught up with us, we began to hike across the top of a bunch of mountains. I was a little confused, because our professor (Canada lady, who i talked about in a previous post here) had gone ahead with a few students, even though the guide who knew the trail was behind in the group with us. Hiking across the mountains, we were pelted by horizontal rain and high winds from the side, FUN. At one point, the guide stopped and said something to the effect of "this is the highest point on the trail.... here is where the Inca blahblahblahblah...." After about 2 sentences, a few of us in the front just yelled "Siga! Por favor!" (Keep going!) because we weren't about to stand in the freezing rain and listen to a lecture when we could walk faster and get off the god-forsaken mountain. He was very understanding, and we kept walking.
Eventually we went down the mountains and came to a river with a big open area. There we found our professor and some students, but when we all joined up they realized that someone was missing. A boy from Riobamba, Adrian, had gone off in front with our professor, and she had gone ahead of him and thought that he went back to find us. He was all alone, and he (as we learned later) had fallen down some sort of small cliff and passed out.
So when we were all together they sent the ecuadorian guide backwards on the trail on a horse. We had all stopped walking (obviously) and were freeeezing at this point... so we huddled like penguins and waited for our professor and one of the teaching assistants on the trip to go check out some little huts that were on the side of the mountain to see if we could stay in them.
P.S. At this point, we were supposed to have been camping at Ingapirca... which was still about 2 days away... Time estimates = WRONG
The profe and TA signaled for us to come up because the little houses were abandoned... so we could stay somewhere "warm" for the night. We all packed into a little hut that was clearly meant for animals, and organizated ourselves on top of hay and rocks, and some people started to make a fire in another one of the huts that was more open so smoke could get out. We all changed out of our wet, wet, clothes, and tried to arrange ourselves in our sleeping bags in the small barn so that we could all be close together for warmth, but still comfortable... which never really happened...
At this point, the guide still hadn't come back from trying to find the missing kid, so right when it was getting dark, they sent out one of the TA's and a mule-leading guide to go try to find a cell phone signal to call the military or someone to search for the boy, and to call his parents in Riobamba.
As we were drifting in and out of sleep, at about 1:00 am there was yelling and scrambling for flashlights... the 2 people who had gone to try to find a cell phone signal had found Adrian! He had to walk back though, because it wasn't the guide on the horse that found him. He had been missing for something like 12 hours, and I didn't see, but my friends said he was clearly hypothermic and looked just horrible. He had only had a jacket, and no hat or gloves, plus he had passed out earlier and then woke up not to know where he was or which way to go. There was lots of scrambling for food and water to give him, and they started up the fire again to get him warm.
The next morning, we set out with promises of reaching a town later in the day. It was a long, even more muddy hike, where I had to pause many times to make decisions about where to jump so that I wouldn't fall in water or mud... but EVENTUALLY we made it to San Jose de Colebrillas at about 1 or 2 in the afternoon. From there, we rode in the back of a truck in the rain for about an hour, and my friend Kelsey and I were also buried under bags and tents... so we didn't get too wet. We arrived in Tambo and were able to catch a bus to Cuenca, where we would stay the night.
We got to our hotel in Cuenca and it was absolutely amazing. Elizabeth and I were so relieved to see the polar opposite of where we had slept the previous night... a King size bed, enough storage space for a family of 5, a gorgeous bathroom with HOT water (somewhat intermittent, but only because everyone was trying to use it at the same time), and two balconies. After one of the hotel workers showed us into the room... we just started to crack up in sheer amazement.
That night, we had obviously run out of food, and we both had no way of getting money (Elizabeth's debit card had expired by the way, whereas mine was stolen... both were in the mail on their way to Ecuador at the time) So we would have to find a fancy restaurant that would accept credit cards. Lonely Planet pointed us in the right direction, as always, to Cafe Eucalyptus. We had a HUGE dinner, after half-starving half-surviving-on-tuna for the past 2 and a half days, with smoked trout salad, Pad Thai, pork and pineapple skewers, and quesadillas, followed by a banana's foster for my dessert, and a chocolate cake for Elizabeth. We watched a live salsa band there for a while and then headed back for an amazing night's sleep.
We woke up the next morning and got the breakfast included with our hotel (sweet!) and then went off to run some Cuenca errands before we had to meet at noon to go to Ingapirca (Incan ruins). The errands consisted of finding a famous panama hat store (sidenote: Panama hats are from Cuenca, Ecuador, not Panama... don't ask me why they call them that... no idea) and getting to internet. At the panama hat store we got Elizabeth's uncle a hat, and got one for Zack, as he hadn't had time to get one when we were in Cuenca before. I also managed to leave my (really Liz Girten's) Lonely Planet somewhere in the store :( and now it's gone forever... unless I go back to Cuenca and they happen to have kept it... Then we found internet, went back for lunch with our group, and went off in a bus to Ingapirca.
Again, time estimates were quite off and we got to Ingapirca right when it was closing. Luckily, our professor convinced them to stay open for one more hour, and we got a sweet tour of some amazing ruins. This was definitely a good way to end a crazy, mostly terrible, trip. We were there right at sunset, and there were so many cool pictures that I took with the sun shining on the monuments/walls/etc.
After making a list of all the quichua words we could remember, we rode in the back of a truck (on a beautiful night, not raining) to Tambo, and had dinner in a little restaurant while we waited for a bus back to Quito. We arrived home in Quito on Sunday morning at about 6:00 am. And so ends my Semana Santa vacation!!!
Whew.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Semana Santa 1 - Of Amazing Experiences
The views were gorgeous, we went up and down some hills and by some lakes.
On the way back, Pierce thought it appropriate to claim an island. It was really shallow water and the island was close to the shore of the lake, so he waded through the cold water to get to it. Pierce was also wearing all khaki that day (and a few other days later in the week) so he ran around claiming the island in the name of 'Khaki Man!' Eventually he invited us to his island, and we reluctantly walked through the water to get to it... but it was well worth it :)
That night, we used the kitchen at the refugio to make pasta with lentils, and some popcorn. We also danced around the kitchen (thanks to my handy-dandy portable iHome, again) and probably kept the ranger-guy awake, but hopefully not too late. Pierce also read us all the bible stories about Easter... with intermittent pop quizzes :) It was a lot of fun.
EASTER Sunday!: On Easter morning, me, Zack, and Elizabeth slept in while Pierce went out to the lake next to the refugio to try to catch some trout. He came in to wake us up at 10:30 or so with no success. Oh well, I guess we'll have to go eat at the restaurant for lunch... no fishies to cook. The weather was no better, but after lunch we set out to another part of the park on the other side of the highway, planning on camping the night and then leaving the park a different way the next day. Oh, also, that morning I woke up to find my camera broken :( I can still take pictures but the screen broke so I can't see anything. I think I either had dropped it or it froze at night (it was reeeaaally cold). Anyways, we hiked for a while, but while we were walking down a muddy slope I fell a little and thought I heard a crack in my ankle. I totally freaked out, as did everyone else, but I turned out to be just fine, it was just a little twist. At one point we came up over a hill and saw the most gorgeous view ever... the park is SO big!
Then we kept hiking and got fairly confused as to which lakes were which on the map, and if we were even on a trail at all. The paramo (ecological area that the park is in) consists of a lot of lakes, little streams, no trees, bushy plants, and lots of mud. Some of the streams are actually underground and they have these little green plants growing over them, that you can sometimes step on and sometimes not... Well, it was hard to tell where the trails were because 1. there were no signs and 2. the little streams were easy to walk along, and there were lots of them, so any of them could have been trails.
We did know which direction we were going, and we knew which way the highway was, so we went that way. But, the way we went led us to a big ridge of mountains that we would have to get over to get to the highway, and possibly to some cabins that we saw on the map. Pierce went up first (being the daring, experienced hiker that he is) to find a way for us to go. It was getting a little late, and we saw Pierce go over the mountains in a way that looked super-scary, so we were planning on camping up in one of the only flat areas we could find, which was already windy and cold.
If you look closely, you can see Pierce up there:
Luckily, from way up on the mountain Pierce found us another way that was safer to come up, and he said that from the top of the mountain he could see a bunch of cabins and the highway on the other side. With that motivation... the rest of us climbed up the mountain... which was quite strenuous, but worth it. When we got to the top, the sun was just starting to go down... but luckily we could see the cabins, so we got to them before dark.
Top o' the mountain:
Yeah, so since my camera broke, i didn't notice that I was taking pictures with the shutter half-closed, but i think this looks cool anyways:
When we got to the cabins it had just gotten dark, so we broke out our headlamps and yelled "buenas noches!" a few times. No answer... Zack and Pierce went to check out some cabins on the other side of the little lake they were by, but nobody was there either. We all thought... hmm... this is how scary movies start...
Determined as ever, Pierce kept checking every window on the cabin that we had put our stuff by. Just when we're ready to put up the tents in the 'yard' next to a cabin, we hear "I'm in!". Pierce had gotten a small window open... just big enough for us to fit through... barely. Also, when he went into the abandoned cabin he realized the electricity worked! Which was a big surprise. We passed all our stuff in and climbed in through the window, then we made some bacon 'n' beans for dinner, and Pierce tried to start a fire. The fire however, ended up smoking up the whole cabin, because the chimney was only half-open. We all sat on the ground or by windows for a while, trying to fan out all the smoke, which worked out okay after a while. After that failed-attempt we were too scared to try again, so we lit a candle and roasted some marshmallows over it to have s'mores. Overall, probably one of my most interesting and memorable Easters ever.
Monday: We woke up and walked just a few feet to the highway, and we were waiting for a bus to take us back to Cuenca, but none came for quite a long while. So we hitched a ride in the back of a pick-up with some bananas and a stack of chairs... hah. There was the same construction on the way back, so we were sitting for a long while in a line of cars, but we eventually got back to Cuenca. We went straight to the bus terminal and caught a bus to Loja right away. It's not too far away, so we arrived in Loja in the late afternoon and wanted to get to Zamora (about 2 hours away) so we could stay there for the night and hike in Parque Nacional Podocarpus in the morning. While we were waiting for a bus in Loja we checked the internet quickly and grabbed some dinner. When we got to Zamora we found a pretty sweet hostel for just $4 a night (the one we stayed at in Cuenca was $10... super-caro! hah)
Tuesday: We woke up and took a taxi to Parque Nacional Podocarpus... and it was nice and warm out :) much different than the nights spent in Cajas.
We hiked aroudn for a while, and saw some great waterfalls. This one is 'La Poderosa':
Again, Pierce made the decision to go ahead of all of us... and we, as always, thought he was crazy at first. But then, we all finally went swimming in the huge waterfall, and it was one of the most amazing experiences ever. Pierce liked swimming so much that he went in another waterfall later in the day along with Zack.
At the end of the day, we had to leave the guys so that Elizabeth and I could meet a group for a field trip in another city about 9 hours away. We took a bus from Zamora back to Loja, and in Loja I realized that for some reason my ATM card wouldn't work at the bus terminal. I went to try 2 more ATMs but they didn't work either. This was a big problem, because Elizabeth and I needed to buy enough food for our field trip to last 2 to 3 days. Luckily, Zack loaned us some money so that we wouldn't starve, and we went off to meet our field trip in Alausi at 6 am the next day...
Thursday, April 9, 2009
SORRY!
Mike came to visit, Family came to visit, we all had an AMAZING time and I miss everyone lots :( But I'll talk about our adventures later...
For now, I'm leaving for 10 days on Spring Break!!! So much fun, here's whate we're doing (by 'we' I mean Zack, Pierce, Elizabeth and myself for the first half - until Alausi - and then I'm on a field trip with Archaeology and bringing along Elizabeth, Kristina, Stephanie, and 2 friends from Michigan State, Kelsey & Tricia)
Friday morning (4/10): leave Quito for Cuenca
stay Friday-Saturday night in Cuenca
Saturday: Parque Nacional Cajas
camp in park Saturday-Sunday
Sunday: night- leave for Loja
stay Sunday-Monday in Loja
Monday: Parque Nacional Podocarpus
camp in park Monday-Tuesday
Tuesday: night- leave for Alausi
Wednesday: Alausi, Achupallas
camp Wed-Thurs Laguna Culebrilla
Thursday: hike to Ingapirca
camp Thurs-Friday at Ingapirca
Friday: Ingapirca, Cojitambio, Cuenca
spend the night in Cuenca
Saturday: Cuenca (downtown, museums)
spend night in Cuenca
Sunday(4/19): bus back to Quito
No homework, just adventure! I hope I'll have enough room on my camera :) Now I'm off to go rent a tent... be back in 10 days!
-Caro